Before I went, gannan was like a dream, always around me; After leaving, gannan is still a dream, a dream I don’t want to wake up.
Why go to gannan
Travel for many years, have seen the beauty of countless, such as the desert rain, sea kiss whale, snow mountain embrace forest, dusk chase dawn…… But it is not the most beautiful scenery that has long occupied my mind, but the local culture that has been integrated into my blood. Among them, Tibetan culture is a dazzling pearl.
When it comes to Tibetan areas, most people’s first impression is Tibet. In fact, the Tibetan area is a big concept, roughly divided into legal domain, human domain, horse domain, which is often said that the three Tibetan areas of wei Tibet, kangba, ando. I am ashamed to say that I have visited the weizang region centered in Lhasa and measured the kangba region centered in qamdo, but I have not visited the gannan Tibetan region in ando…
Gannan is like a small rascal, for many years, has been living in my heart, not only did not pay full rent, but also often tease my desire to move the heart, let me for him is to break the human bowel is cost thinking is storm…… In order to solve the pain of missing, in the middle of may this year, finally ran away, this just found that the secret gannan even better than imagined, fortunately, it is not too late.
This trip focuses on cultural pilgrimage, of course, the scenery is also a barb drop, a snapshot is hd wallpaper. During the seven-day trip, we visited three places: first, xiahe county, including labrang temple, congra market, tangka town, sanke grassland, bajiao ancient city and dalzong lake. The second cooperation city, including mira riba nine-storey buddhist pavilion, meilin grassland, biba show, dunhuang grand dream performances; Its sanluqu county, including langmu temple, gahai lake, gaxiu village attractions.
Day1: lanzhou – xiahe county labrang temple
About four hours from lanzhou drive to the town, finally saw the legendary labrang temple. Labrang temple is a change of the Tibetan language “labrang”, meaning the residence of living Buddha master, is one of the six gelug sect of Tibetan Buddhism temples, known as the “world Tibetan academic institution”. The other five major monasteries are gandan temple, drepung temple, sera temple, tashilhunpo temple and kumbum temple.
Labrang temple in the history of 108 temple, today’s labrang temple has been greatly reduced, but is still a huge complex of buildings, the main temple has more than 90, including 6 colleges, 16 buddhist temples, 18 angou (big living Buddha palace), monks and preaching altar, dharma court, printing house, pagoda… Seen from the hillside of the buddhist altar, these buildings line by line, with large and small pearls falling into the beautiful.
So, what is the historical source of labrang temple? Shuoben’s quest for sources, the establishment of labrang monastery and the well-preserved teaching system of Tibetan Buddhism are closely related to the efforts of one person, the first kaamsample master yowang zongzhe. It can be said that without him, there would be no labrang temple, now known as the world’s Tibetan academic institution.
In 1668, yowang zongzhe went to drepung temple in Lhasa to study, and was awarded “jiamuxian yaba” for solving the question of the king of Tibet, which means having the wisdom of manjusri bodhisattva. Since then, yowang zongzhe has become famous all over the world. Instead of reveling in flowers and applause, awang zongzhe galloped back to his hometown gannan and founded labrang temple beside the daxia river, with a complete teaching system of Tibetan Buddhism.
Lhaleng temple has the longest transiting corridor in the world. Every day, no matter in the morning or in the evening, you can see religious men and women in this transiting corridor.
In the transit corridor to see the coming and going of the transit, from time to time can also see the animals turn the picture, before the sheep, this is a dog. That morning, I turned the corner again, and a little yellow dog walked right up to me, and I walked forward and he followed me, and I stopped and he snuggled up to my feet, and I leaned over and touched him, and he was as soft as a blanket… Later, the dog followed me all the way back to the hotel… I’m sure this is the first time I’ve seen this dog. Why does it follow me and get close to me? Is it because we find tenderness in each other’s eyes?
Summer seven at eight o ‘clock in the morning, river of the tree can see crowds of people in long kowtow, cold wind blowing I squealed, but his flock like rock firmness, and did the same action, the golden sun playing in their rough red face, at this moment, my impetuous heart finally in this color, in this seemingly complicated movements, calm down.
Day2: labrang monastery congra — tangka town — sanke grassland
Today’s trip is quite casual and interesting. In the morning, I went to visit congra of labrang temple, which means market and market in Tibetan. Conra, just outside the labrang monastery, is dotted with small shops selling inexpensive daily necessities such as boots, robes, hand clusters and everyday clothing. Every cordyceps season there are cordyceps sales, prices vary from dozens to hundreds of a root.
In conra, you can see a stream of red-robed monks coming into the shop, looking at their robes and asking about the material. Also can see leisurely and carefree in the sun uncle, here, the buddhist door and secular no boundary, blend together. The whole bush is very small and can be walked in half an hour.
After visiting the dense smoke and smoke atmosphere of conra, come to the town of thangka to see this hall of sacred relics. Thangka, also known as tangga, is a religious scroll painting mounted with colorful satin and hung for worship. The content of paintings involves Tibetan history, politics, culture, social life and many other fields, but most of the works handed down from generation to generation are works of Tibetan Buddhism and bon religion.
Those who know thangka all know that thangka USES gold, silver, pearl, agate, coral, pine, malachite, cinnabar and other precious mineral precious stones as well as plants such as saffron, rhubarb and indigo as pigments… In the eyes of the Tibetan compatriots, only the most precious gems and the best pigments can be used to draw the gods in their hearts and preserve them in a better condition.
The town of tangka is built along the river, and there are a number of studios, each studio has artists in the work, they sit in front of the canvas, to petals, clouds and so on one by one sketch, from time to time also put the pen into his mouth to lick, and continue painting… Despite the presence of others, the artists were completely undisturbed and concentrated on painting the Buddha in their hearts.
In the conversation, we learned that artists usually have to learn for five or six years before they can acquire the ability to draft. For the painter, the best age to draw thangka is between 30 and 40 years old. The first few decades are basically learning and exploring…
Years on the canvas, the visual impact is still pretty big, plus with the mouth licking brush, paint into the mouth…… It is not healthy for his body naturally, but everyone has to be responsible for his own choice, choose thangka, doomed to use life in painting. Their attentive eyes are more a conversation with faith than a painting.
In the afternoon, I came to the vast sanke grassland. The sanke grassland is not far from labuleng, less than 20 kilometers away. You can also rent a bike from xiahe. This is a meadow grassland, with an average altitude of more than 3,000 meters. The grassland covers an area of 70 square kilometers, and there are only 4,000 herdsmen.
We are going to visit the camp nordan hiding in the depths of the sanko grassland. This is a camp run by the Portuguese. Black tents are scattered like stars in the grassland.
The whole camp is very original. It is in harmony with the local environment. If you don’t consider the price factors of thousands of dollars, you really want to live here for a month, get up early to see the sunrise, send the sunset at dusk, enjoy the stars all over the sky at night, a cup of tea, a cow, two people, is the world!
This camp is not open all the year round, and the business hours are from May 1st to October 15th. If you are interested in this camp, you can send me a price list by private letter.
Of course, the most exciting part is shooting stars on the grassland. On that day, we took photos with white yurt and conch as the foreground. The fly in the ointment is that the distance from time to time there is a car lights, light pollution is still some. But come out to play, not perfect, happy the most important.
It’s still cold to shoot the stars on the mountain at night.