Dunba is famous for its jinchuan pear blossom, jiarong beauty and diaolou Tibetan village. Several times I drove on the sichuan-tibet line, I missed it because it was neither on 317 nor 318.

The only way is to make a special visit.

This is a “pain and happy” self-drive line, only experienced people can understand.

Out of chengdu, we climbed mountains and mountains all the way, and then went to the expressway 211 and 303, which lasted more than 8 hours and ran more than 400 kilometers. Finally, we reached Dunba county in the mountains and valleys before dark. The highest of these mountains is the murdo mountain, which is sacred to both Buddhism and bon religion.

A stream of trent melt around the edge of the steep cliffs. This small mountain town with mountains and rivers is the key point to the big ring line to the west of sichuan. It can go to siguniang mountain, wolong, huanglong and jiuzhaigou. West to shangri-la; Facing south is the capital of ganzi state kangding, famous luding bridge, heluogou.

In fact, the city of Dunba, with a population of only 50,000, is at best a small town in the mountains. All the counties we passed along the road in west sichuan are such small towns, plain and simple, without exception.

Go up the mountain through the city jia ju copycat, mountain road narrow, nine twists and eighteen bends, extremely steep, the edge is cliff, a little distraction, the car will fall into the abyss. Trembling, holding the steering wheel of the palm of a sweat, the end to the top of the mountain.

Dawa droma of the DunbaJiaju Tibetan village has been waiting inside the stockade. The mandala courtyard in dawa zhuoma is a three-storey Tibetan watchtower hidden by fruit trees.

In the dusk, crows flew by in the sky, the forest wind came, the distant mountains were very close, and everything was fine.

On the steep, wooded slopes below the kapama peak, the Jiaju Tibetan village is littered with small Tibetan houses. Jiaju, the Tibetan word for hundreds of families.

The first floor is for livestock. The second floor is for housing. The roof is a four-corner block shaped like a carved building. It is said that in the ancient jiarong Tibetan village, the towering diaolou and the Tibetan house are two different kinds of buildings. Only with the passing of time and the decrease of war, has the blockhouse become one and the same as the present one.

The house is surrounded by a forest full of fruits: walnuts, pears, green apples, plums and apricots, red pepper, green corn, cattle and horses under the trees, sheep, dogs, warm daily life, is the real mountain Eden.

Dava droma’s inn, on the second floor, is a large terrace overlooking the valley. A tall fruit tree, half shaded by its luxuriant foliage, hung with fruit the size of a green pear, fluttering gently in its green leaves. When we first met, we all thought that the green and striped fruit was a pear. Later, a Tibetan girl I met in the suopo Tibetan village told me that it was a green walnut.

I picked a stone, break open, juice splattered, fruit skin open shell crack, reveal inside the package of milk white immature walnut meat, finally the truth.

After dinner, zhuo ma invited several local friends to go up the mountain. Zhaxi, director of Dunba cultural center, graduated from sichuan fine arts institute and has served his hometown for many years.

Shanzhai silence, the night lights on.

Everyone sat together, tashi talked about the Dunba jiarong Tibetan story:

The Dunba area has been inhabited by ancient humans for more than 5,000 years. The middle road township of Dunba has unearthed the ruins of the neolithic age and the sarcophagus tombs of the warring states period. The old diaolou left behind today date from the han dynasty more than 2,000 years ago to the qianlong period of the qing dynasty more than 200 years ago.

Despite its high mountains, Dunba has not been able to escape the flames of war for thousands of years.

The local jiarong tibetans, mainly from the 7th century xiangxiong ali, and the tubo king songtsan gambo who married princess wencheng. After the unification of the tubo region, songtsan gambo sent the tubo army into jiarong region, and after the integration with the local indigenous descendants, namely jiarong Tibetan. As a branch of tibetans, there are five different languages here, four of which are spoken in the same language, but the language is incomprehensible.

As early as the tubo nine generations praise puebla DE GongJia period (about 126 AD), the oldest black Tibetan region to teach (YongZhong bon) with the tubo army passed in the rgyalrong region, they serve morre mountainous for big mountain, patron saint of rgyalrong area, the Tibetan hero morre general temple, as we close up Dunba county, 303 provincial highway. Today, with Tibetan Buddhism spreading all over Tibet, bon religion is the main religion of tibetans in jiarong area.

Dunba is a good place.

Jia rong Tibetan girl tall, bright eyes and teeth, white beauty, can sing and dance, like the mountain fairy. Zhaxi said, a few years earlier jia rong beauty has been down the mountain, become a lot of local singing and dancing troups, hotels and hotels most popular pillar and image spokesman, so, now up the mountain, but do not see a few Tibetan beauty.

Zhuoma took out her Tibetan clothes and showed us the elegant demeanour of the Tibetan women. Jia rong Tibetan women’s clothing is known as “three”, one is the head, due to the age of different sizes: the head of the girl, in addition to embroidery, head of four or two before hanging color line bundle; And the young woman’s head-dress was embroidered, but without a cord; Older women have black or plain hair. Two pieces and three pieces refer to the two aprons behind and in front of the woman. They are about one foot wide and are called “narrow aprons”. Dunba, bardi, geshiza and other places have different colors and folds for the female head.

As the old saying goes, the layman watches the scene and the connoisseur watches the scene. In Dunba, the head of a woman’s hair is known as paque.

Jia rong Tibetan also jumped pot zhuang.

As a traditional Tibetan dance, it originated from sacrificial dances in ancient times and vows in slave society. In Dunba, jiarong Tibetan guzhuang dances are mostly about praising nature, such as sun, moon, mountains and rivers. There are also guzhuang dances praising labor, love, blessing, punishing evil and promoting good. Such as string bell guzhuang, earth song guzhuang, peacock guzhuang, princess guzhuang and so on.

The night in the mountain village, the wind is cool as water, and outside the window there are crows and insects.

Insects came out of the dark forest behind the mountain and crept quietly into the room.

When I fell asleep, I didn’t know,

Midnight up, turn on the light moment, surprised a palm big spider as the speed of light from the quilt climbed;

A moth has spent most of the night in bed;

Again lifted the quilt, impressively found a few small butterflies, ants appeared in the quilt;

Up on the wall and ceiling crawled a group of unidentified small black worms.

Accompanying the ticking the rain, the dark outside the window, there are three two strange noise, who seems to be watched on.

Dare to ask you mysterious forest visitors, can have good intentions?

Sleeping together with so many small mountain creatures in Jiaju Tibetan village, it depends on personal concentration whether you can sleep soundly.

The night’s light rain extended to the next day.

Early in the morning, the mountains are wet and the air is fragrant with flowers.

Eyes in front of fresh, washed away last night’s thriller experience.

Standing on the watchtower terrace, you can look across the valley to the merdor mountain, which rises to the top of the cliff with rain and fog. At the bottom of the valley, the jinchuan river forms a winding curve and disappears at the end of the valley.

Banks on both sides of the hillside, jiaju and nie gai Tibet.

Red and white watchtowers loom among the shady trees, scattered deep into the clouds on the hilltops.

Jiaju Tibetan village has been rated as “six most beautiful villages in China”, the beauty cannot be hidden in the deep mountains.